THERE is a traditional feel at the Bluebell Inn, at Glangrwyney, near Abergavenny, something that befits the oak beams of this 17th Century coaching inn.

But the food in its restaurant benefits from a modern twist and a light touch. Based on traditional British fare, the chef mixes effortlessly fine Welsh ingredients with a taste of the Mediterranean.

Take my dinner companion's starter - warm black pudding served on a bed of salad leaves with diced bacon and topped with an egg poached to perfection for £4.65.

It was pronounced a triumph.

My starter was one of the day's specials priced at £3.75, and was similarly impressive: delicious fritters of melted brie with leeks and sweetcorn. I chose trout, grilled and stuffed with goat's cheese and cooked with pesto for my main course. The fish is well suited to the delicate pesto flavour, and it was served with salad, saut potatoes (you could also choose new potatoes or chips) and a choice of al dente vegetables. At £8.95, I felt it an excellent choice.

My companion's Welsh lamb, also served with vegetables and a choice of new potatoes, saut or chips, was tipped with an attractive pile of fried, shaved parsnips and a rosemary gravy. It was succulent and delicious, and cost £9.95.

His tasty raspberry pavlova (£3.95) won over a palate not normally attunded to desserts, while my toffee and vanilla cheesecake (£3.95) was light and simply delicious. Both were presented beautifully.

The restaurant also has a good selection of wines and local ales, and there is a beer garden for those who want to stay on after their meals to while away summer nights. Maria Williams