ARRIVING at Junction 28, Bassaleg, Newport, on a grey and freezing Monday evening, my husband and I expected to be almost alone in an echoing sea of empty tables. But as we drew up outside the building and spent some time trying to find a parking place we realised we were mistaken.

Such is the popularity of this great little restaurant, that it was heaving, both with families and couples enjoying the early evening flyer menu (a snip at £13.95 for three courses ) and with those waiting for the later evening a la carte.

The atmosphere then was, as usual, warm and friendly and we were able to enjoy our meal without feeling the centre of attention.

Having said that, anyone eating at Junction 28 is made to feel special by the attentive, yet not overbearing staff. They were swift to seat us at a quiet table in the extended dining area, and warm bread and delicious butters soon followed.

Our starters, pan-fried red mullet with buttered leeks and carrots for me and seared marinated duck breast with caramelised nuts and tarragon dressing for my husband, were both cooked to perfection.

I enjoyed Brecon venison steak with saute potatoes, porcini and oyster mushrooms, the meat pink and tender. My husband's breast of chicken filled with smoked bacon and mushrooms was a little dry and could have done with some more of the lovely roast garlic cream with which it was served. Vegetables are served and priced separately, always a bone of contention, but they were nicely cooked and presented.

Desserts of traditional French profiteroles and a fragrant rose and lavender crme brulee finished off a most pleasant meal. With wine and pre-prandial drinks, the bill came to £64.80. Clare Drewett