THERE'S certainly no danger of getting lost in Cork's high street. By night it's lit by sweeping futuristic streetlights and by day they act as a line of silver beacons for anyone trying to find St Patrick's Street. Designed to resemble ships' masts, to reflect Cork's seafaring history, they are loved and loathed in equal measure by the locals Whatever your view, 2005 is definitely the year to visit Ireland's second city, which is this year's European Capital of Culture -- the the smallest city to be awarded the title. A diverse programme of 236 events, involving community groups and international stars, will run for the rest of the year, offering everything from music, theatre, dance and film to literature and sport. There will be something on whenever you go and organisers have gone out of their way to ensure there's something for everyone, not just culture vultures. Cork, in the most southern part of Ireland, is a compact city and, like Venice, it's been built on water. The town centre is actually an island. It's easy to get around on foot as the whole area is criss-crossed by 29 bridges. One of the most atmospheric districts is Shandon, overlooking the city. The steep streets, lined with colourful old cottages, lead to St Ann's Church where you can pay to ring the bells. In O'Connell Square is the Butter Museum telling the story of the city's greatest international trade. From the 18th century onwards, Cork's prosperity was founded on butter exported to all corners of the world. Incidentally, you'll probably find Cork butter more salty than others, a throwback to days when salt was used as a preservative on long voyages. While it's fun just to wander around the streets of Cork with no particular plan in mind, there are some excellent attractions. Cobh, pronounced Cove like its original name and also known as Queenstown after Queen Victoria's visit in 1849, is one of the world's biggest natural harbours. The Titanic made its last stop at Cobh before its ill-fated Atlantic crossing in 1912. The whole history of the tragic voyage unfolds in the dramatic Queenstown Story at Cobh Heritage Centre. Another story is told inside the walls of Cork City Gaol, which has unlocked its doors to visitors after serving as the area's prison from 1824 to the 1920s. The wretched lives of some of the original inmates has been meticulously researched. And after all this, if you want to raise your spirits, take a look around the Old Midleton Distillery and drink up the atmosphere while finding out about the history of the Irish whiskey Jameson. One of the most popular of Cork's legendary "singing" pubs is the Lobby Bar in Union Quay where there's live music every night. You certainly won't go thirsty in Cork. You won't go hungry either. The city is renowned for its seafood and it's well worth indulging in reasonably-priced oysters, salmon and crab. A particularly good and reasonably-priced restaurant is Jacques, in Phoenix Street, and for one of the best breakfasts in town, head to the upstairs caf at the English Market before browsing around the colourful stalls. At one time, only English settlers were allowed to trade at the market, hence the name, but now Mediter-ranean produce is sold alongside local specialities including buttered eggs and drisheen, a Cork delicacy made with sheep's offal. This corner of Ireland is a mix of pretty coastal towns and rural areas. It's also home to the Blarney Stone at the castle of the same name. It's a 20-minute drive from Cork city and if you're determined to kiss the stone, try avoid weekends to miss the queues. It's a shame that many people head straight for the stone and ignore the gardens, which are well worth a visit in their own right. Legend has it that if you lean over backwards and kiss the stone at the top of the castle you'll be blessed with the gift of eloquence, in other words, the gift of the gab. But informed research among members of my group revealed that a few glasses of the locally-brewed Murphy's or Beamish will result in similar loquaciousness without the need to climb more than 100 steps.