NO ONE knows exactly when the tradition of making pancakes on Shrove Tuesday began, but recipes for them feature in cookery books as far back as 1439.

Shrove Tuesday is the traditional feast day before the start of Lent on Ash Wednesday.

Lent, the 40 days of abstinence leading up to Easter, was a time for fasting and Shrove Tuesday was the last opportunity to use eggs and fat before Lent.

Hence the tradition of making pancakes.

But for many people, Pancake Day is one of rubbery offerings or pancakes stuck to the ceiling.

So we asked Spencer Ralph, the man recruited by TV chef Gordon Ramsay as head chef at the Walnut Tree, Abergavenny, a year ago, for his recipe for the perfect Pancake Day.

He said: "Anybody can make pancakes but you have got to make sure you have got a really hot pan.

"You have got to get the butter or oil very hot, just before burning, to help it stop from sticking.

"They take minutes to cook. Once it is coloured on one side, turn it over and serve. If you are brave enough you can toss them but if not use a spatula, it's not worth the risk.

"I enjoyed making them as a kid and they are easy and quick. Parents can get the children helping them to make them and get them involved."

He said there were many fillings for the pancakes from traditional lemon and sugar to more unusual options. He said: "I would choose fresh exotic fruits like mango, kiwi and pineapple for the topping because they're in season and taste good.

"If you want savoury pancakes you take out the sugar in the recipe and you can add spinach and ricotta.

"You can even have them with ice-cream.