IF you want to make sure that your bathroom's in ship-shape condition what better way to do this than with a new bathroom basin? A relatively quick and straightforward job to complete, this addition can give a brighter, smarter look to your room.

There is a wide range of 'sanitaryware' to choose from on the market, which can fit in whatever the style of your bathroom - modern or classic. For example, B&Q has its own, very stylish 'it' range of modular bathroom furniture, which allows you to mix and match different finishes and colours to create a unique appearance.

You will usually be able to use the existing water supply pipes and waste outlet when replacing an old basin or sink. Try to choose a trap similar in size to the one you have removed, as this will make fitting much easier. If you want to put a sink in a new location you will have to extend the pipework, which is more ambitious.

There are several types of basin available. Wall-mounted basins can look extremely smart but they need very strong fixings to support their weight and hiding pipework can be difficult. Pedestal basins are the most popular choice. The hollow pedestal supports the weight and also hides pipework, making them fairly easy to install. Pedestal basins also come as a corner fitting, a space-saving option for small bathrooms.

Prepare for installing your new basin by getting together the necessary tools and materials:

Tools

Dust sheet Cranked spanner Spirit level Pencil Pipe and cable detector Hammer-action drill with masonry bit Pipe cutter Narrow files Screwdriver Wire wool

Materials

Pedestal and basin Taps 15mm push-fit flexible tap connectors Sanitary silicone sealant 50mm screws Plasterboard fixings, if required Wallplugs, if required Waste trap Waste pipe

Now you're ready to fit your basin in six simple steps:

1. Lay a dust sheet on the floor and rest the basin upside down. Fit the washers supplied over the tail of each tap through the holes in the basin. Screw the plastic nuts on to the tail end of the tap using a cranked spanner. To prevent the whole assembly from turning, hold the tap with your other hand while tightening the nut. Connect 15mm push-fit flexible tap connectors with built-in isolating valves to each tap; remember to include the fibre washers. Again, hold the tap with your other hand while tightening the nut with a cranked spanner.

2. Apply sanitary silicone sealant around the waste hole in the basin. Push the waste outlet through the hole and bed the rim of the grid into the sealant. Fit the rubber washer and plastic retaining nut, run a bead of sanitary silicone sealant behind the washer to ensure a watertight fit. Stand the pedestal in position and put the basin on top. Adjust it until the whole unit is centrally placed over the pipework and touching the wall. Use a spirit level to get the basin level, then mark the position of the fixing holes on the wall and the floor.

3. Arrange the flexible pipe connectors so that they fit behind the pedestal and mark the inlet pipes, where they will need to be cut. They must be long enough to fully engage with the fittings on the pipe connectors. Make sure the waste pipe is in the correct position to join the sink trap.

4. Remove the pedestal and basin. Check for hidden pipes and cables. If the area is clear, drill and plug the wall at the fixing. On a hollow wall, use plasterboard fixings*.

Check the floor-fixing positions for hidden pipes or cables, then drill the holes and, on a solid floor, plug them. Use a pipe cutter to cut the inlet pipes where you marked them, and file off any burrs. Fit the trap to the waste outlet pipe, remembering to include all rubber washers.

5. Out the unit back in position. Screw the basin to the wall and the pedestal to the floor. Don't overtighten the screws.

6. Push the flexible tap connectors onto the inlet pipes. If the inlet pipes are dirty, clean them with wire wool first. Insert the waste pipe into the trap and hand tighten the nut. Turn on the water, open the isolating valves and check for leaks. If you spot any drips, retighten the connectors as necessary.

*Hollow wall fixings

When fixing screws into hollow walls of plasterboard you must use specially designed fixings. The strongest kind open up once they are inside the cavity. None, however, are strong enough to take a heavy load for this, you need to locate the timber wall studs with a detector and fix the load with wood screws.

Fixings include:

Metal anchor - This has metal segments that open out into the hollow wall

Plastic anchor - This has a plastic anchor with segments that open out once it is in the hollow wall

Nylon petal plug anchor - This has nylon wings that open out like petals to grip the back of the plasterboard.

Gravity toggle - This is a screw with a swinging metal bar (Toggle) attached. When inserted, the toggle swings down and grips the bag of the wall. The toggle is lost in the cavity if the screw is removed. A gravity toggle is a strong fixing for plasterboard or lath-and-plaster walls

This and hundreds of other DIY jobs are covered in the new B&Q 'You Can Do It' book - the complete step-by-step book of home improvement. No task will be too great with comprehensive advice from the professionals and easy to follow instructions, giving you the practical skills to build, renew, create and repair. Designed to give everyone the confidence to 'do it themselves' this must have book is available at B&Q stores for £16.98.

If you need additional advice, you can ask one of B&Q's staff at your local store. Trade experts are available in most B&Q Warehouses to advise you a wide range of DIY issues. Alternatively, visit the B&Q website: www.diy.com where you can get further information on DIY projects, gardening and product information.