SITTING at one of a long stretch of tables at the far end of the restaurant was reminiscent of being in a train carriage, so I was not surprised to learn of Junction 28's railway history.

The decor of the Bassaleg, Newport, restaurant consists of random plates and prints that don't quite match, but that doesn't matter because this restaurant is all about the food.

The menu is vast and constantly changing - mostly the same ingredients, but in different and imaginative combinations.

There are a number of traditional dishes with a twist, and presentation is obviously important to the chef.

It is tempting to fill up on the complimentary hunks of fresh bread and butter while you wait for your meal, but try to resist as the portions are generous.

To start I chose the tempura king prawns on a bed of leaves with chilli jam. This was a delicious combination and the prawns were truly succulent.

My friend selected the melon with mandarin jelly and strawberries. Despite being one of the less unusual choices on the menu, she thought the quality ingredients made it special.

For the main course I had the pan-fried red mullet on creamy mash with a tarragon sauce, and my friend chose beef Wellington in a madeira sauce. We shared a side order of fresh vegetables, which included deep-fried aubergine and cauliflower cheese.

The sauces were both very rich, but complemented the food perfectly. The dessert menu was too tempting to resist and I chose the peaches in filo pastry parcels with strawberry icecream.

Although the pastry was a bit rich on top of the main course, the ice cream freshened it up and it was impossible to leave any.

My friend chose the baked Alaska with mint ice cream which was equally delicious.

Together with two mineral waters, the meal came to a reasonable £42.55. The restaurant also offers three courses for £12.95 from a separate menu if you eat early in the evening. Rhiannon Beacham