Ashley Nield travels to the north of Scotland and then keeps on going for an unforgettable trip to one of our country's remotest islands

ISLAND life makes the most of people, it breeds self-reliance, curiosity and a warm welcome for visitors.

That's what you can expect on the Orkney Islands, after a 30-minute flight north from Aberdeen airport.

But it won't be the kind of gushing, shallow welcome you might experience in a major resort.

Orcadians are tough people - they have to be to survive long winters and hard jobs in fishing, farming or fresh-food processing. What they'll give you is the old-fashioned respect of one human being for another.

Orcadians have more Scandinavian blood than Scottish and for this reason you won't find much tartan or bagpipes.

What you will find are beautiful, treeless landscapes, ancient stone circles, fabulous sea views and two charming towns in Stromness and Kirkwall.

In the two great wars of the 20th century, the Orkneys moved from the periphery of empire to centre stage. This is because the islands surround one of the greatest natural harbours in the world: Scapa Flow.

If any of your ancestors served in the Navy they would have been familiar with the Orkneys and may well have been stationed here. The islands served as the base for the North Atlantic Fleet, and between 1940-45 up to 100,000 servicemen (and women) called this place home (and probably a few other things).

Nostalgia visits by former sailors and their families have formed an important element in Orcadian tourism and there is a superb Scapa Flow Visitor Centre and Museum on the island of Hoy.

Anyone paying attention in school geography classes will recall "The Old Man of Hoy". This is a stack sitting near the cliffs on the far side of the island.

The museum records events such as the sinking of the German battle fleet in Scapa Flow after the First World War, and the torpedoing of the British battle ship Royal Oak in the second. The latter is now an official war grave, containing the remains of 800 sailors.

Today's Orkney Islands have broadened their tourist appeal and can offer visitors superb opportunities to enjoy the fruits of the sea and the farm.

The seas up here are cold and vigorous currents scour the islands creating healthy fish and crustaceans. Island fishermen land premier-quality lobsters, crabs, scallops, mussels and clams.

The islands are also helping to pioneer some of the best salmon farming in the world (a lot of it ending up in your local Waitrose supermarket).

There is also a thriving pickled herring and potted crab industry. For the sports buffs, sea fishing opportunities are top-rate and boats can be chartered in Stromness or Kirkwall.

The Orkneys are also renowned as one of Britain's finest beef producers, using almost exclusively Aberdeen Angus. The meat finds its way to Newport to be sold at Palfrey's in Church Road, Maindee.

There is a brewery and distillery on the islands, but the malting barley has to be imported. The dairy industry is strong and Orkney ice cream and fudge is a rare treat.

When you add up the food, history, landscapes, seascapes and people, it's clear a trip to the Orkneys will prove to be an unforgettable experience.

FACTFILE

* Orkney Tourist Board 01856 872856. * Orkney Ferries 01856 872044 * John O'Groats Ferries (foot passengers only) 01955 611353 * British Airways 01856 873611 * For more information visit www.orkney.org

Pictures: Scottish Viewpoint/Visit Scotland