D.H Lawrence famously wrote that Sardinia was lost between Europe and Africa and belonging to nowhere, and this sense of isolation sums up its unique charm, says Jeannine Williamson

AS our small boat nudged through impossibly clear blue waters, past deserted beaches, rocky coves and craggy cliffs it was easy to get swept away by desert island fantasies.

Geographically, Sardinia is right in the middle of the Mediterranean, equidistant between Italy and Tunisia.

The second largest island in the Med, after Sicily, it belongs to Italy - although many Sardinians prefer not to be reminded of the fact.

They are a proud individualistic people with a strong sense of identity and it is only recently that Sardinian has taken second place to standard Italian'.

Although mass tourism has made its presence felt on the north coast of the 260km long island, there are still many towns and villages that have changed little over the decades.

The mountainous landscape has prevented huge-scale expansion.

It was certainly true of our base, Cala Gonone, nestling in a bay halfway along the eastern coast, an 80-minute drive from Olbia Airport.

Although plans are underway to upgrade the busy little harbour and upgrade hotels, it retains a captivating Mediterranean small-town feel.

If you need to charter a boat, find a tour guide, track down something special to bring home then chances are your hotelier will know somebody who can help, in fact he'll probably be related to them.

Day to day life is totally unhurried.

But it's easy to have a contented, laid-back attitude when you're on an island that has a seven-month summer season, gorgeous scenery and 1,849 km of virtually unspoilt coastline.

Many of the beaches are accessible only by small boat and the island's natural wonders are a major part of Sardinia's appeal.

You need a boat to reach the nearby Blue Marino Caves. A 1km trail is open to the public, leading past awesome stalactite and stalagmite formations.

On the homeward journey we were lucky enough to spot some dolphins playing in the water in our wake.

Aside from watersports, there are plenty of other attractions including hiking and mountain biking.

Brave souls who enjoy a cliffhanger of a challenge can embark on Cala Gonone's other famous sport - free climbing. We spotted pinprick Spiderman figures high on the cliff face but declined the offer to have a go'.

All that fresh air, even if you're just watching, is enough to work up an appetite and eating and drinking in Sardinia is a real treat. Mealtimes are leisurely affairs to be savoured, often featuring an antipasto with a huge selection of small dishes, followed by pasta, a main course and dessert.

There are also some excellent Sardinian wines, countless varieties of bread, including wafer thin sheets, and delicious locally-produced olive oil.

At the Ristorante la Porto, which is open to non-residents at Hotel Pop, (so named because the owner's father started out in business selling popcorn from the back of a motorbike) a gourmet meal costs around £20 a head.

On the last day we enjoyed the ultimate picnic. Our boat moored off an empty beach and we clambered onto a rubber dinghy to reach the shore.

After a restorative glass of local bubbly, and a dip, a couple of other small boats arrived, signalling the time to move on. We reached another wide, sandy cove, dropped anchor and sat in the shade of the cliffs feasting on local seafood, ham, cheese and bread. Not quite cast away but the nearest thing to it.