JEANNINE WILLIAMSON satisfied her sweet tooth with a trip to Switzerland

THE shoes on display, with their turned up toes and scruffy uppers, were a world away from those worn by well-heeled Swiss ladies taking a morning stroll.

But they were positively delicious.

Seven years ago Confiserie Poyet in Vevey, beside Lake Geneva, began producing Charlie Chaplin chocolate shoes in memory of their famous former resident, who is immortalised in a surprisingly small life-size statue by the lakeside.

Today, packed in tiny replica shoeboxes tied with ribbon resembling old cine film, they are among the bestsellers at the chocolatier and coffee shop.

We had travelled to Vevey, 10km away from our base in Montreux, by paddle steamer, one of the nicest ways to get around the lake. And while Switzerland and chocolate are inextricably linked, there are plenty of other treats awaiting visitors to this beautiful area.

The late Freddie Mercury, who also lived on the Swiss Riviera, told friends: "If you want peace of soul, come to Montreux". And it's easy to see why.

The lake, set against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains, really is the archetypal chocolate box photograph.

I stayed at the Royal Plaza, one of the best addresses in town and the only five-star hotel on the shores of Lake Geneva.

The hotel has just undergone a multi-million pound makeover and its La Croisette restaurant has quickly earned a reputation for its cuisine.

After a suitably indulgent Champagne cocktail in the Sunset Bar, overlooking the lake, we made our way down to the restaurant for one of the special seasonal menus, in this instance featuring different varieties of asparagus, all served with the culinary flair.

Next morning I headed down to the Atlantis Spa and did a few laps of the pool before kidding myself that I'd done my bit to justify several trips to and from the amazing breakfast buffet spread.

But it is outdoors where Switzerland really scores as the place to enjoy a healthy holiday the easy way.

After breakfast we made tracks to the railway station and boarded the Panoramic Express, part of the Golden Pass network of scenic rail routes.

The train runs relatively slowly, enabling passengers to enjoy the views through the huge glass windows.

We passed historic buildings, picturesque villages and impossibly green meadows filled with caramel coloured cows.

Our destination was Gstaad, the ski resort favoured by royalty and members of the jet set.

The shore is a natural gathering place and, depending upon the time of day, is variously populated by joggers, dog walkers, business people, families and night owls heading to and from the restaurants, bars and clubs.

As well as being interspersed with outdoor cafs it is also home to the bronze statue of Freddie Mercury.

No visit would be complete without going to Chateau de Chillon, the 13th century castle with its creepy dungeons, stunning medieval rooms and lofty battlements.

The castle inspired Lord Byron to write The Prisoner of Chillon in 1816, just one of the area's famous poetry connections.

Literary fans can go on the 7km Poet's Ramble, which takes in various spots that inspired Ernest Hemingway, Hans Christian Andersen and Victor Hugo.

FACT FILE

* Royal Plaza Holidays (reservations 020 7795 4919) offer seven nights half-board at the five-star Royal Plaza in Montreux from £695 a person. The price includes return scheduled flights, transfers, a day excursion round Lake Geneva and visits to a wine cellar and Chateau de Chillon. Three-centre holidays in Lucerne, Interlaken and Montreux are available.

* Three-night weekend breaks, with bed and breakfast, entrance to Chateau de Chillon and return rail trip from Geneva to Montreux start at £199 a person.

* Easyjet, 0871 7500 100; www.easyjet.com); British Airways 0870 850 9850, www.ba.com; and Swiss 0845 601 0956, www.swiss.com fly direct to Geneva from London and regional airports.