KEN BENNETT travels to Windsor to visit the Queen's weekend haunt

ONE of the best views you get of Windsor castle is crossing the common land where lazy cows munch on buttercups as you take the 10-minute drive from Taplow to Windsor.

It's become the Queen's favourite home and you can understand why.

For a start, there's the setting. From the battlements she can look over a bend in the River Thames, across the treetops to Eton College and out over farms, villages and shires of Berks and Bucks.

These mellow acres nuzzling the broad Thames are the stuff of our history.

This Royal Borough boasts mind-blowing sights and fun all in a few miles.

Just along the Thames is Runnymede, where the Barons made King John put his seal on Magna Carta, which set out limits to the power of the king and was an important milestone in the development of our democracy.

A tribute to President Kennedy graces the site, while on a hill above stands a memorial recording the names of 20,455 Commonwealth airmen who have no graves.

Two miles from Windsor lies Legoland, where you can take in the enormity (if that's the right word) of 46.5 million Lego bricks made into 800 model buildings and 700 models including cars, bridges.

And if brick-laying isn't your bag, the fully-fledged entertainment park offers rides like the Jungle Coaster, which races along at nearly 40mph, plunging under a waterfall.

But Windsor itself is enough to fascinate anyone for a weekend. First, check out the excellent Tourist Information Centre opposite the castle and then, to get your bearings, amble down to the river.

Here are the largest squadron of swans you're ever likely to see in one place. At least 60 gathered by the bridge near French Brothers boat moorings as we boarded for a 35-minute trip upstream, past the island that houses Windsor Racecourse and gazing at the plush homes of stars like Natalie Imbruglia.

Then across the bridge and down to Eton College, which was created by Henry VI for 70 poor local boys.

Today, 70 boys still compete for subsidised education as King's Scholars, live in the original buildings and can attach the initials KS to their names, while the parents of 1,200 other boys pay more than £20,000 a year for the privilege.

A guided tour of the college that has been home to Princes William and Harry is one of the better £5 you'll ever spend.

Stroll round the quadrangle that was used for the against-the-clock race in Chariots of Fire, marvel at the 600-year-old frescoes in the college chapel, and sit in the original schoolroom where generations have carved their names. Anywhere else it would be called vandalism: here it's history.

And then to Windsor Castle itself. Restored in finest detail after the devastating fire of 1992, the opulence is breathtaking.

There are jewelled crowns from around the world and pictures everywhere. You'll spot, almost casually displayed, Canaletto, van Dyck, Rubens, Durer, Breugel, Holbein and Rembrandt.

And then there's Queen Mary's dolls' house - given to her when she was in her 50s. Designed by Lutyens, with a garden crafted by Elizabeth Jekyll, it's about the size of your average downstairs toilet and every thing in it is to scale (1:12) and works.

It has running water, electric light and power, a gramophone that plays and real vintage wine in the bottles in the wine cellar.

And to keep you going in your exploration, Windsor and the surrounding towns brim with great places to eat - you can choose from 16 different cuisines in Windsor and Eton alone.

FACT FILE

* Ken Bennett stayed at Taplow House Hotel, Taplow, Berks, 01628 773625 or click on www.taplowhouse.com

* For information and opening times on Windsor Castle call 020 7766 7304 or surf to www.royal.gov.uk

* French Brothers boats 01753 851900 or www.boat-trips.co.uk