Over the past decade Prague has reinvented itself, JEANNINE WILLIAMSON visited one of the newest members of the EU

IT'S 11 at night, I'm only halfway through the 90-page hardback book and there are already others queuing up to see it.

When I'd asked for the cocktail menu I hadn't expected something akin to a bedtime read.

Containing nearly 290 recipes, that the slick bartenders appeared to know by heart, I opted for a French 75, a wicked mix of champagne, gin, lemon juice and sugar.

With its centuries old beer-making tradition you might not expect the Czech Republic to feature many decent cocktail bars, which just goes to show how misleading preconceptions, can be.

The scene at Bugsy' s cocktail bar typifies recent changes in this new member of the EU.

Over the past decade Prague has transformed itself in to a modern European metropolis.

The five-star Corinthia Towers Hotel is an example of the stylish and high levels - 25 storeys to be exact - of accommodation now available, complete with gourmet restaurants, an entertaining diner combined with a bowling alley and a spa.

Most people visit Prague for its stunning mix of Gothic, Renaissance, Art Nouveau and Cubits architecture.

Fifteen bridges criss-cross the River Vltava, which runs through the city, the oldest and most famous is Charles Bridge.

There are two other main sightseeing areas that are a must.

Stare Mesto is the medieval old town and if you need to synchronise watches set the time under the amazing 15th century astronomical clock.

In this area you'll also find Josefov, the old Jewish Quarter where the cemetery is a poignant reminder of the past.

Hradcany is situated around Prague Castle, listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the world's largest ancient castle. The silhouette of the castle, with St Vitus Cathedral in the background, is probably the best-known view in the city.

If time is short it's well worth taking a guided tour but Prague is easy to get around on foot with the help of the Metro, trams or inexpensive taxis.

Despite the plethora of trendy cocktail bars you'll hear the words "pivo prosim" (beer please) wherever you go.

Czech pivo is rated amongst the best in the world, which is probably why the country is also the number one beer drinking nation.

You can imbibe the centuries old tradition, for around 60p a glass, with Pilsners, the world's first golden beer, or acquire a taste for the more unusual coffee beer, beer champagne and red beer.

Unfortunately the cheap beer means you'll encounter a depressingly large number of staggering British stag parties.

Traditional food is simple, rustic, hearty and inexpensive with dumplings featuring often and in many guises.

Czech dishes are not vegetarian friendly but there are now many restaurants with a wide variety of international dishes.

When it's time to shop head for the main shopping areas by Wenceslas Square and the labyrinth of streets surrounding the Old Town Square.

FACT FILE

* Room rates at the Corinthia Towers Hotel start from £150 per night, based on two sharing, or £135 for single occupancy, including buffet breakfast.

* The hotel is ideally situated just two minutes walk from the Metro station, which is two stops from the Old Town. For further information call 020 8943 4194 or visit www.corinthiahotels.com

* Czech Airlines operates 69 flights a week from London Heathrow, London Stansted, Birmingham, Manchester and Edinburgh to Prague starting at £89 return. Call 0870 443 747 or visit www.czechairlines.co.uk

* Recommended reading: Prague Insight Guides, £14.99