Benidorm is not all about bars and boozing, it sits in one of the most beautiful parts of Spain's Costa Blanca, and is indeed a holiday stop to suit all tastes, as NIGEL CORTEN discovered.

HOLIDAYING in Benidorm - I know what you are thinking - high-rise hotels, flashy, noisy, beer flowing all hours - and you'd be right!

But there are two sides to this very popular holiday venue on Spain's Costa Blanca.

Looking like Manhattan, the town is split into two areas; to the north the more British-style Levante, with shops, restaurants, clubs and bars, and the slightly more subdued Poniente to the south.

The two areas are hinged in the middle by the old town, which has kept many centuries-old features in its alleyways. The roofs of tall houses teeter high above you, finished off with a lovely promenade, always crowded, on a small peninsular jutting into the Mediterranean.

We stayed at the comfortable Sol Pelicanos and Acos Hotel in Levante, which is three-star but with a six-star swimming pool complex. It also has entertainment to suit all tastes and ages every day.

The beaches are first-class, with little outcrops of palm trees, and the sand gets a daily early-morning grooming. Beach sculptures near the promenade are awesome in detail, be it the Sphinx or the Last Supper.

It only takes a few minutes by car to be away from all the hustle-bustle and out into some beautiful countryside, with mimosa trees and orange and lemon groves adding pleasing splodges of colour to this part of the Costa Blanca canvas.

On your way round there are traditional Spanish villages, with a craggy mountain range in the near distance keeping guard over all below.

The quaint little village of Altea is just a few miles north. Its centrepiece is the ancient church of Our Lady of the Condolence at the top of the village, with its blue-tiled Moorish towers. Below, the tiny harbour sees fishing boats bringing in their cargo. It's the perfect stop-off if you want to slow down a little.

There are a raft of cheap trips from the hotel. One deserves a mention - the Lemon Express train, which rides up into the hills to visit a village. Your trip includes a tour of a guitar-making factory. Great fun it all is, with an on-board announcer straight out of club comedian mould. On the return trip he and his team come and dispense gallons of Cava, till you arrive back pleasantly the worse for wear.

A few minutes away is Mundomar, a marine and exotic animal park, including a dolphin and seal show.

If you're into spectacular entertainment, then try the Benidorm Palace. They have revamped their show this year, spending millions, for a swirling three hours of dancing, singing, and magic.

Poniente has more of an upmarket feel, with designer clothes shops, etc, all watched over by Europe's tallest hotel, the 54-floor Gran Bali, which has lifts on the outside.

I have to mention one real institution here - Sticky Vicky. Everyone who has been to Benidorm must surely know of her. Posters advertising her 'show' are everywhere, and she must have the stamina of an athlete to get round about seven bars in a few hours.

Without going into detail, she does a magic act - pauses for sniggers from those in the know.

Vicky is all part of the culture of fun in Levante, as everything is geared to letting your hair down.

Away from the bar scene, you don't have to be too fit to attempt a popular walk up a mountain at the northern end of Levante. At its summit is a cross, from where the views are breathtaking. For bargain hunters there is a huge weekly open-air market on the outskirts of town.

Oh, and don't be taken in too much by the beggars. One lady with a baby, who was outside our hotel most of the time, drove a better car than me when I spotted her later.

If you put away any prejudices, then you will be assured of a holiday that won't cost the earth, and will bring a smile to your face.

FACTFILE

* Nigel Corten travelled to Benidorm with MyTravel and flew from Cardiff Airport and stayed at the three star Sol Pelicanos and Acos hotel.

* Holiday price: £260 (half-board in March, rising into the £400s for the summer)

* Trips/Attractions: Lemon Express £15; Mundomar marine and exotic animal park, £2 adult and £1.50 for a child; Benidorm Palace £25

* Car Hire: £60 for a Fiesta for three days