FROM the outside, The Piercefield at St Arvans, near Chepstow, looks like a country pub, but once you are inside, its stylish interior reflects culinary ambitions that go well beyond simple bar meals.

We started with a bowl of tomato and basil vegetable soup that was bright, peppery and pleasing; and a dish of the remarkable 'house special' crab fishcakes.

The cakes were firm and rich, and near perfect. I wanted them again for the main course.

But instead I went with a tender and gratifying lamb chump baptised with a rich sauce and accompanied by vegetables done 'just right'.

A side order of garlic mash was a little clumpy, rather than fluffy, and was too bitter.

My companion had the 8oz steak fillet, which she found satisfactory, and way better than the usual pub-cuisine steak and chips (though at near twice the price).

By then something sugary was needed, and a syrup sponge was warm, soft and sweeter than sweet.

But the Belgian waffle with chocolate sauce and ice cream - another 'house special' - was even better. It was delicious and different, my companion adored it, and so did I.

The bill came to £52.75, including a soft drink and a glass of Hidden Falls Chardonnay; a reasonable price for a meal well served by an attentive staff, and slowly savoured by two happy diners. The Piercefield can be contacted on 01291 622 614. Paul Platt