MALCOLM WARNE travelled north to Glasgow, to discover the attractions of a city which sparked off the fashion for urban regeneration.

URBAN regeneration has been the name of the game for every British post-industrial city over the last 15 years.

Newcastle, Leeds, Manchester and Bristol have all re-discovered their Victorian hearts and many millions have been spent on warehouse conversions, old dock and riverside projects and make-overs for the forgotten architectural gems which, for years, have been in seemingly terminal decline.

The city which sparked it all off was Glasgow when it clinched the title of European Capital of Culture in 1990, much to the surprise of cynical Sassenachs who thought its only contribution to culture was the invention of the deep-fried Mars bar.

What followed was a a significant campaign to alter people's perceptions of a city, which tended to be of a hard-bitten industrial giant in a state of decline, hastened by a strike-happy workforce. It suffered particularly in comparison with the genteel charm of the capital Edinburgh.

Today Glasgow is fashionable, having rediscovered its artistic and architectural heritage.

It is also seriously wealthy again, set in the heart of so-called Silicon Glen.

The grime has been sand-blasted away to reveal a proud and beautiful city with a cosmopolitan air.

Not all of its problems have disappeared of course. The contrast in the fortunes of its poorest and most affluent citizens is evident in its city centre, which boasts both an incredible number of beggars and some of the most exclusive shops you will find outside London and Paris.

But it makes for a great weekend break destination. In a two-night stay we split our time between shopping and culture.

A shopping tour beginning at the Buchanan Galleries (John Lewis and others), taking in the pedestrianised Argyle Street (Frasers department store and the chic Argyle Arcade), the enormous St Enoch Centre (all the big national multiples) and finishing in the ultra-exclusive Merchant quarter.

Sunday started at the People's Palace a museum that isn't remotely stuffy, reflecting the richness of Glasgow life, past and present. On display are the artefacts of the merchants who made the city one of the wealthiest Europe in the 19th century but also comedian Billy Connolly's big banana boots..

Just as eclectic in its diverse treasures is the Burrell Collection kept in a stunning building set in rolling parkland on the outskirts of the city. Sir William Burrell was one of Glasgow's wealthy shipowners, who gave his art collection to the city and the purpose-built gallery is a truly memorable setting for the works of art which include Ming dynasty china, medieval tapestries and sculpture and paintings by Whistler, Cezanne, Degas and Renoir.

In two days we just scratched the surface of what this revitalised city has to offer.

We did, however, take a little time to relax at our chosen hotel - the Macdonald Crutherland House, just 15 minutes from the city centre. It represents old-fashioned Scottish hotel excellence.

Beautifully appointed throughout its public rooms and the suite we stayed in, its staff were friendly and helpful. We stayed on a half-board basis, so enjoyed the grandeur of its restaurant for both the last-you-all-day breakfast and the sophisticated cuisine in the evening. The health spa has a decent-sized pool.

In summary, the hotel made the ideal refuge after the rigours of cultural or shopping missions to the city.

FACTFILE

* Greater Glasgow and Clyde Valley Tourist Board, 11 George Square, Glasgow G2 1DY, tel 0141 204 4400 or visit www.seeglasgow.com

* Macdonald Crutherland House Hotel, Strathhaven Road, Glasgow G75 0QZ, tel 01355 577000.

* Bed and breakfast: £55 a person a night; dinner, bed and breakfast, £75 a person a night, until Sept 30, but special late availability offers may be found at www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk