STEPPING in off a drizzly Chepstow Road in Newport it was a relief to enter the charming (and I would not use that word if it wasn't absolutely necessary) Villa Dino.

There's a country-house-hotel feel to the place and an eclectic decor which has obviously been built up over many years.

Instantly at home on the sofa near the bar we sip wine and choose our meals before being led in to the dining room.

My spaghetti with oil and garlic starter was good - not too oily or pungent and just enough not to spoil my main course. Jo's prawns in garlic were meaty and refreshing. Having gone off-menu (without a flicker of protest from proprietor Mr Gulotta) my fillet au poivre was a joy.

Meat, as if it had been braised for hours, almost fell off the knife and it was rare enough to yield succulent juice and there was plenty of thick, creamy and peppery gravy to dip all those tiny roasted potatoes, crunchy cauliflower and garlic carrots.

Tearing myself from the plate I test Jo's lasagne, with soft pasta, tasty bolognese sauce and just the right amount of tomato this dish, too, was very good.

Purely in the name of research I managed a healthy portion of creamy lemon and ginger cheesecake, with cream.

Excellent food - as is to be expected at last year's Argus Restaurant of the Year - in a wonderful setting made for a very pleasant time and, if the price - around £50 which included two glasses of white wine, half of lager and water - is a shade over the average, Villa Dino is well above the norm. Telor Iwan